Tiller Tuning, By Perry A. Ratcliff

Tiller tuning methods described elsewhere require an archer of exceptional abilities to produce consistently good results. The following tiller tuning procedure should be useful to a much larger segment of archers.

My tiller tuning procedure is a simple two-step process. In the first step, you adjust the tiller to where you can best aim the bow. In the second step, you fine tune the tiller to where the bow is most forgiving.


Step 1

Shoot as many shots as necessary to determine whether the bow is pulling you down below the spot or the bow is drawing you up above the spot. Drawing "on the spot" will help you best determine what direction the bow is pulling you. If the bow is pulling you down below the spot, decrease the weight on the bottom limb or increase the weight on the top limb. If the bow is drawing you above the spot, increase the weight on the bottom limb or decrease the weight on the top limb.

During this part of the tuning process it is not critical that you continue readjusting the nocking point for good arrow flight. You are only interested in getting the bow to aim with the greatest ease. After you have adjusted your tiller, continue shooting the bow to see how well it aims for you and adjust the tiller as described above until the bow consistently draws on or near the spot.

When you have the bow aiming well, readjust the nocking point (and peep sight height) to obtain proper arrow flight.


Step 2

You now have the bow adjusted for the best "feel" in you hand and can begin tuning for best grouping. For this part of the tuning process it is necessary to evaluate how well you execute each shot. If you bow is tuned properly all of your "Good" shots are going to group together.

What you need to do now is identify what happens to your arrows when you shoot an arrow that has been aimed well but execution was flawed. Disregard all shots that are not well aimed (did you do a good enough job in step 1). If tiller is not yet adjusted perfectly, your questionable shots will tend to go consistently high or consistently low. These high or low shots are what you will be looking for when fine tuning your tiller. If your tiller is adjusted correctly, some of you poorly executed shots will group a little high and some will group a little low.

If your poorly executed shots consistently group low, decrease weight on your bottom limb or increase weight on your top limb. If your poorly executed shots consistently group high, increase weight on the bottom limb or decrease weight on your top limb.

This fine tuning process should not be completed in only two or three ends because you are making adjustments based on where you poorly executed (but well aimed) shots are going. During this fine tuning process, make adjustments on only one limb and never make adjustments of more than +/- ¼ turn from your initial setting of step one. I generally make my fine tuning adjustments in 1/16 turn increments.

Unlike most tiller tuning methods, this procedure works well at even short distances. I generally do my tiller tuning at 20 yards. At 20 yards, I try to determine whether my poorly executed (but well aimed) shots consistently drift high of the spot or low of the spot and adjust accordingly.


Avoid the Death Grip

By Russell Thornberry
-- Practice to Achieve the Ultimate Bow Hand Control.

Lateral torque is largely the product of improper bow hand contact with your bow's grip. If you have problems with erratic arrow flight, hitting right or left of center, chances are you are suffering from improper bow hand contact. 

Photo: The shaded portion of the hand illustrates the only part of the bow hand that should contact the grip. The dotted line shows the lifeline in the center of the hand. If the bow hand is turned into the grip, making contact with the lifeline, expect lateral torque to be a problem and be prepared for the string to snap the inside of your forearm.

The bow hand is merely a contact point with the grip -- a fulcrum of sorts. That's why bow grips have steadily been reduced in size over the past years. Most competitive archers take the grips off their bows to further minimize bow hand contact with the riser.

Photo: This shows proper bow hand contact with the grip. Notice that the knuckles form a 45-degree angle in relationship to the riser.
Proper bow hand contact should never actually grip the grip. Gripping the bow handle is a major no-no. The only part of your bow hand that should contact the grip is the fleshy pad below your thumb. Never allow the lifeline in the middle of your hand to make contact with the grip. When at full draw, the knuckles on your bow hand should form a 45 degree angle with the riser. If your knuckles are vertical, then you've brought your whole hand into the grip, which creates two basic problems: 1) lateral torque, and 2) bow arm contact with the string.

Photo: This shows improper bow hand contact with the grip. Notice that the hand is turned fully into the grip and the vertical attitude of the knuckles.
The bow hand should be relaxed, and fingers should not be stiff or tense. They should dangle loosely, as opposed to pointing. A rigid bow hand begs for problems. A relaxed bow hand does not.
Attention to the proper bow hand contact will make you a better, more consistent archer, which translates to more bull's-eyes and more venison in the freezer.
-- All photos by Ryan Noffsinger

Photo: The bow hand should allow the fingers to dangle loosely without tension.	Photo: Tension in the fingers is a sign that the bow hand is not fully relaxed, contributing to torque problems.
Photo: Proper bow hand contact with the grip leaves plenty of room between the forearm and the string.	Photo: Turning the bow hand into the grip reduces clearance and turns the forearm into possible contact with the string.

Special thank you to
Bill Sampson
for submitting
this Archers Tip

HOW TO MEASURE YOUR DRAW LENGTH

 

Draw length can be determined by a measurement known as wingspan. Figure your wingspan, then look in the chart below to find your draw length.

1.) Lean with your back against a wall, standing as close to the wall as possible with your back flat.

2.) Extend your arms and fingers out as far as possible with your arms against the wall in a horizontal position.

3.) Have someone make a pencil mark at the end of your finger tips on both hands.

4.) Measure this distance - this is your wingspan

5.) Find this number in the chart below to find your draw length. (Example: a wingspan of 73" would be a draw length of 29".)

 

WINGSPAN (INCHES) DRAW LENGTH (INCHES)

63  24
64  24 1/2
65  25
66  25 1/2
67  26
68  26 1/2
69  27
70  27 1/2
71  28
72  28 1/2
73  29
74  29 1/2
75  30
76  30 1/2
77  31
78  31 1/2